On the San Carlos Apache Reservation in eastern Arizona, Eric Shin works up a sweat even under the morning sun as he tends to a three-acre garden that grows heritage vegetables. 

The Apache red corn and Apache squash that Shin grows with the nonprofit Nalwoodi Denzhone Community triggers memories of long-forgotten flavors among tribal elders, some of whom are moved to tears. For many tribal youth, the flavors are entirely new, despite their cultural significance. 

“Not many grow it. Only a few people have it,” Shin said. “The youth have never seen it or tasted it.”

Living in Globe, not far from San Carlos, has been an adjustment for Shin, who moved to the rural area from Chicago with his wife about 15 years ago. In a community of about 12,000 people, there is a single grocery store. And much of what is offered in that market is highly processed. So Shin got involved with the nonprofit with the goal of not only infusing the community with healthier food options, but also supporting community members who wanted to grow their own garden or run their own farm.

“It wasn’t the plan I had. I didn’t know anything about native culture or native people or Arizona before I moved. I’m a Chicago guy, a city guy,” he said. “If I can do this, anyone can do this. We’ve helped a lot of people, feeding thousands of people every year.”

Part of their success has come with the help of the Southwest Regional Food Business Center, run by the statewide economic development nonprofit Local First Arizona. The Regional Food Business Center program launched in 2022 by the USDA to build resilience in local and regional food systems and ultimately minimize vulnerability to supply chain disruptions. The program strengthened national security and supported local farmers and food businesses by enhancing local competitiveness and creating new market opportunities.

The $400 million federal program was canceled in mid-July. With 11 other regional food business centers across the country and success stories rippling out from each, its loss has left farmers and producers wondering why. 

The Southwest Regional Food Business Center alone served more than 2,000 unique individuals and forged 492 new partnerships in its brief lifespan. More than 200 businesses increased production in response to new market opportunities being unlocked. And 118 businesses reported increased sales or purchasing of regional food products. 

Kimber Lanning, Local First Arizona’s founder and CEO, said the Southwest Regional Food Business Center was a clear-cut success.

“For smaller farmers, the center was on track to provide coordination, technical assistance and capacity building to expand their operations. Many were relying on it in order for their business to survive,” Lanning said. “Now, after all this time and investment, we’re back at square one.”

Completing the five-year Regional Food Business Center program would have helped an estimated 36,000 American businesses across the country. 

For Shin, the Southwest Regional Food Business Center provided valuable staff support that he otherwise did not have. And it allowed the nonprofit Nalwoodi Denzhone Community that Shin runs to act as the bridge for the San Carlos Apache Reservation that it always envisioned itself to be.

“We’re creating food systems change,” Shin said. “We need that support so we can develop a system that is unique for the San Carlos Apache people.”

The guidance that the Nalwoodi Denzhone Community offers up-and-coming farmers, coupled with the support the Regional Food Business Center provided, were two necessary ingredients for a new food systems structure in San Carlos. The center, Shin said, was a catalyst for moving tribal farmers along their business development journey.

Food production, Shin said, gives individuals purpose. Educating them on how to do it themselves, he said, gives them the independence they need.

“As we grow this new system and as we develop new producers and farmers, people that want to grow traditional crops, we can’t do it all ourselves. We’re going to see new entrepreneurs emerging through this,” Shin said. “We are so close. It was a really big hit for us knowing we need to change plans.”